Wednesday, 29 March 2017

Tour de Jammu

http://raghavs1003.blogspot.in/2017/03/tour-de-patnitop.html

Next day, taxi came at around 8.30 and due to tiredness of walk to Vaishno devi temple , we started by 9 AM. We crossed Agar Jitto and Nav devi temples and reached Baba Dhansar after around 30-40 minutes!
It is situated on the bank of river and we were able to hear sound of flowing water from height.

Flowing water view from hill top, Baba Dhansar
We had to cross around 200 stairs downside to reach the temple. There is a big campus outside the temple and water comes in a small lake through one spring. There is one main temple of Baba Dhansar and a cave where idol of Lord Shiva is rooted with whole family. Priest in the temple took prasad carried by us and told about the mythological story behind the temple.

Water source at Baba Dhansar
Place was really serene and after our pooja, we headed back towards Nav devi.

As name suggests, this temple has idols of 9 Goddesses. One more feature of this place is abundance of monkeys or I should say "snatching monkeys". While Mum was purchasing prasad I saw one adult monkey snatched some eatable from a child. We had to downstairs since temple is below the hill. Actually there are two caves, one it open where Lord Hanuman is seated after which we are supposed to cross a slender path with pointed rocks. Old or fat persons should avoid this path. Inside this cave idols of Goddesses at seated. We came out and while dad was about to open bag of eatables a monkey came,snatched,ran away : dad couldn't even react. We had sugarcane juice there and moved towards our next site : Baba Agar Jitto!

Baba Agar Jitto is temple based on a local story about a farmer Jitto. Its entrance was still in construction. After visiting it, we took same road to cross Katra and headed towards Jammu. They have developed road and rails between Jammu and Katra. Driver turned wheels on a narrow road and forced me to ask," where are we going?" "Kol Kandoli Temple"

Entrance of Kol Kandoli temple

Inside view of Kol kandoli temple

Kol Kandoli temple is situated in Nagrota town. When we stopped at Army check post and showed our identity, driver explained, " In the last days of November'16 terrorists attacked on this camp. Many soldiers died". A feeling of respect came from inside. Not only me, whole country respects and loves soldiers...because of whom we live and celebrate in country. Car was parked and we entered temple premises. As per mythology, Pandvas build this temple during their exile. There are two main idols, one brass idol and one pindi of Goddess. There are many other temples also build inside premises. We came out and called driver who was busy chatting with some his friend type person. He took us to next site, Peer Kho or Jamvant Gufa!

In between, we were on the road parallel to famous Tawi river on the bank of which Jammu is situated. River didn't have enough water which made me thought of drought there. We crossed a narrow bridge and while crossing driver said," that is Bahu fort...and below it we can see mini haridwar"

Bahu fort from bridge and Mini Haridwar at left most of picture
We reached somewhere which was looking like cloth market. Driver indicated,"temple is inside the street". This place is famous for naturally made Shivalingam inside a cave. There are many other idols seated due to various beliefs. As per mythology, Jamvant from Ramanaya did meditation in this cave.  One more story is famous on some local saint on how he saved people from some goon.
We came out of campus and while we had famous Raghunath temple in our mind, driver said, we can visit Suchetgarh Indo-Pak border where oldest Raghunath temple is situated. Since we had visited Raghunath temple of Jammu during our earlier visit to Vaishnodevi, we agreed.

Suchetgarh border is around 30 km far from Jammu city after crossing Jammu airport. Single road is not as good as in city. BSF ensures security of this post. We reached there after about 1 and half hours. Driver parked car and we moved towards check post. Officer asked us to show ID proof and provide vehicle number. We provided details and they allowed us to enter inside premises. Raghunath temple is on right side of entrance. We thought of visiting it later and moved inside. There is a canteen on left side of entrance. Some construction was going on there. A big black wall features logo and details of BSF : our pride. We went behind it and could see fence of Indian side.

Indian fencing at left side of picture 
This was my first ever visit to any Indian border and I was a bit emotional with a feeling of security and respect for Army men.  After waiting for some other visitors, they opened main gate for us. Now, I could see neighbor's flag painted far away on their side.

Border
I was walking towards the end point as was feeling as if I am going to the door of my own home : once it will be opened, I will see neighbor. There is an old tree with number 918, half of which is owned by our neighbor. I was little surprised by seeing farms on border. I asked one soldier," who does farming here?" "local villagers of Suchetgarh, our last village". I saw mile stone 919 behind which land owner were neighbors. When I tried to went near, before Army men, my father stopped,   "don't go near". I smiled and returned back. One thing which I noticed was extreme silence...some kind of peace. As if we have never fought any war...never lost any ones life. Alas! I wished this could be true and if not ,this peace last forever and we never lose any life. Our visit time was over and other visitors were waiting outside. I walked back keeping memories of silence. Just before the door, a dog jumped from a bush and ran towards farms. My mum asked a stingering question, " what is the nationality of this dog?" No one had answer. Animals roam here and there and we human, most intelligent creature on planet, fight.
There is a museum which contains various pictures of Army events and brave soldiers who died during wars. One of the most touching picture is of a soldiers smiling while his whole face is red with blood. This border is also known as Octroi! I came to know when I read below notice board.


After coming back, we entered through a small gate and crossed garden to enter into the temple.


Priest gave us sweet water which along with drinking I touched on my hairs. Later ,I realized the content of sweet water was sugar when my hairs became hard as if I have used some gel on them. I came outside and walked back towards car after taking our ID cards from check post. One shop selling local products attracted me. When I entered, shopkeeper grinned and immediately tossed a packet of Shilajit on the counter. I stared at him and he said, " Le jaiye bhaiyya, asli hai". I smiled and denied. Engine was ignited for taking us to Bahu fort and Gardens.

Bahu fort is situated on the bank of river Tawi. There is an aquarium and a beautiful garden on stairs. There is a local story of King Jambu lochan and his brother Bahu lochan who built this fort. King saw a goat and a tiger side by side drinking water of river Tawi without any fear and attack. He considered this place peaceful and so this fort was made.


We can have full view of Jammu city from this fort. There is a famous temple inside this fort, " Kali mata temple". Driver stopped car on one side and said," it will take around 2 hours to see Temple, Garden and Aquarium. I will wait on lower side gate of garden". We walked around 600-700 meters by taking prasad to reach entrance of fort. Here also one monkey snatched prasad like Nau devi, but this time from my Mum. Bags, mobiles etc are not allowed inside. My brother, who was not interested to go inside, kept everything while we went inside. It was aarti time and it took us around 45-50 minutes to come out of it. We walked back to find way to aquarium and garden. Their main gates are on the right side, behind the car parking, once we come out of temple path. We took ticket for Aquarium and walked inside. Engineers have shown their creativity : we enter through a mouthed structure of fish, whole aquarium is in basement, and come out from tailed structure of fish.

Jammu city on the bank of Tawi
Before entering, we preferred to stand over the boundary to see panoramic view of Jammu city.  Dry Tawi river, vehicles running on the bridge, bulbs on far buildings and addition to this, pleasant breeze. I really didn't want to leave that place but Mum called for Aquarium. I have seen aquarium in many places,so, soon we were on the ticket counter of gardens. There is a beautiful fountain and man made water body just when we enter the garden. It looked similar to Brindavan garden of Mysore.

Bagh-e-Bahu
Water drains through cemented path and small fountains add beauty to it. We reached near lower gate where there was a row of colored fountains. Driver was waiting for us. Our tour was over and he took us to Sharma Vaishno Dhaba near railway station. Food was really tasty and the way waiter served made us eat more.


We paid bill to the driver on Jammu Tawi station and rushed though crowded entrance to find our train.

Trip credit : Mum
Pic credit: Me

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