Wednesday, 29 March 2017

Tour de Jammu

http://raghavs1003.blogspot.in/2017/03/tour-de-patnitop.html

Next day, taxi came at around 8.30 and due to tiredness of walk to Vaishno devi temple , we started by 9 AM. We crossed Agar Jitto and Nav devi temples and reached Baba Dhansar after around 30-40 minutes!
It is situated on the bank of river and we were able to hear sound of flowing water from height.

Flowing water view from hill top, Baba Dhansar
We had to cross around 200 stairs downside to reach the temple. There is a big campus outside the temple and water comes in a small lake through one spring. There is one main temple of Baba Dhansar and a cave where idol of Lord Shiva is rooted with whole family. Priest in the temple took prasad carried by us and told about the mythological story behind the temple.

Water source at Baba Dhansar
Place was really serene and after our pooja, we headed back towards Nav devi.

As name suggests, this temple has idols of 9 Goddesses. One more feature of this place is abundance of monkeys or I should say "snatching monkeys". While Mum was purchasing prasad I saw one adult monkey snatched some eatable from a child. We had to downstairs since temple is below the hill. Actually there are two caves, one it open where Lord Hanuman is seated after which we are supposed to cross a slender path with pointed rocks. Old or fat persons should avoid this path. Inside this cave idols of Goddesses at seated. We came out and while dad was about to open bag of eatables a monkey came,snatched,ran away : dad couldn't even react. We had sugarcane juice there and moved towards our next site : Baba Agar Jitto!

Baba Agar Jitto is temple based on a local story about a farmer Jitto. Its entrance was still in construction. After visiting it, we took same road to cross Katra and headed towards Jammu. They have developed road and rails between Jammu and Katra. Driver turned wheels on a narrow road and forced me to ask," where are we going?" "Kol Kandoli Temple"

Entrance of Kol Kandoli temple

Inside view of Kol kandoli temple

Kol Kandoli temple is situated in Nagrota town. When we stopped at Army check post and showed our identity, driver explained, " In the last days of November'16 terrorists attacked on this camp. Many soldiers died". A feeling of respect came from inside. Not only me, whole country respects and loves soldiers...because of whom we live and celebrate in country. Car was parked and we entered temple premises. As per mythology, Pandvas build this temple during their exile. There are two main idols, one brass idol and one pindi of Goddess. There are many other temples also build inside premises. We came out and called driver who was busy chatting with some his friend type person. He took us to next site, Peer Kho or Jamvant Gufa!

In between, we were on the road parallel to famous Tawi river on the bank of which Jammu is situated. River didn't have enough water which made me thought of drought there. We crossed a narrow bridge and while crossing driver said," that is Bahu fort...and below it we can see mini haridwar"

Bahu fort from bridge and Mini Haridwar at left most of picture
We reached somewhere which was looking like cloth market. Driver indicated,"temple is inside the street". This place is famous for naturally made Shivalingam inside a cave. There are many other idols seated due to various beliefs. As per mythology, Jamvant from Ramanaya did meditation in this cave.  One more story is famous on some local saint on how he saved people from some goon.
We came out of campus and while we had famous Raghunath temple in our mind, driver said, we can visit Suchetgarh Indo-Pak border where oldest Raghunath temple is situated. Since we had visited Raghunath temple of Jammu during our earlier visit to Vaishnodevi, we agreed.

Suchetgarh border is around 30 km far from Jammu city after crossing Jammu airport. Single road is not as good as in city. BSF ensures security of this post. We reached there after about 1 and half hours. Driver parked car and we moved towards check post. Officer asked us to show ID proof and provide vehicle number. We provided details and they allowed us to enter inside premises. Raghunath temple is on right side of entrance. We thought of visiting it later and moved inside. There is a canteen on left side of entrance. Some construction was going on there. A big black wall features logo and details of BSF : our pride. We went behind it and could see fence of Indian side.

Indian fencing at left side of picture 
This was my first ever visit to any Indian border and I was a bit emotional with a feeling of security and respect for Army men.  After waiting for some other visitors, they opened main gate for us. Now, I could see neighbor's flag painted far away on their side.

Border
I was walking towards the end point as was feeling as if I am going to the door of my own home : once it will be opened, I will see neighbor. There is an old tree with number 918, half of which is owned by our neighbor. I was little surprised by seeing farms on border. I asked one soldier," who does farming here?" "local villagers of Suchetgarh, our last village". I saw mile stone 919 behind which land owner were neighbors. When I tried to went near, before Army men, my father stopped,   "don't go near". I smiled and returned back. One thing which I noticed was extreme silence...some kind of peace. As if we have never fought any war...never lost any ones life. Alas! I wished this could be true and if not ,this peace last forever and we never lose any life. Our visit time was over and other visitors were waiting outside. I walked back keeping memories of silence. Just before the door, a dog jumped from a bush and ran towards farms. My mum asked a stingering question, " what is the nationality of this dog?" No one had answer. Animals roam here and there and we human, most intelligent creature on planet, fight.
There is a museum which contains various pictures of Army events and brave soldiers who died during wars. One of the most touching picture is of a soldiers smiling while his whole face is red with blood. This border is also known as Octroi! I came to know when I read below notice board.


After coming back, we entered through a small gate and crossed garden to enter into the temple.


Priest gave us sweet water which along with drinking I touched on my hairs. Later ,I realized the content of sweet water was sugar when my hairs became hard as if I have used some gel on them. I came outside and walked back towards car after taking our ID cards from check post. One shop selling local products attracted me. When I entered, shopkeeper grinned and immediately tossed a packet of Shilajit on the counter. I stared at him and he said, " Le jaiye bhaiyya, asli hai". I smiled and denied. Engine was ignited for taking us to Bahu fort and Gardens.

Bahu fort is situated on the bank of river Tawi. There is an aquarium and a beautiful garden on stairs. There is a local story of King Jambu lochan and his brother Bahu lochan who built this fort. King saw a goat and a tiger side by side drinking water of river Tawi without any fear and attack. He considered this place peaceful and so this fort was made.


We can have full view of Jammu city from this fort. There is a famous temple inside this fort, " Kali mata temple". Driver stopped car on one side and said," it will take around 2 hours to see Temple, Garden and Aquarium. I will wait on lower side gate of garden". We walked around 600-700 meters by taking prasad to reach entrance of fort. Here also one monkey snatched prasad like Nau devi, but this time from my Mum. Bags, mobiles etc are not allowed inside. My brother, who was not interested to go inside, kept everything while we went inside. It was aarti time and it took us around 45-50 minutes to come out of it. We walked back to find way to aquarium and garden. Their main gates are on the right side, behind the car parking, once we come out of temple path. We took ticket for Aquarium and walked inside. Engineers have shown their creativity : we enter through a mouthed structure of fish, whole aquarium is in basement, and come out from tailed structure of fish.

Jammu city on the bank of Tawi
Before entering, we preferred to stand over the boundary to see panoramic view of Jammu city.  Dry Tawi river, vehicles running on the bridge, bulbs on far buildings and addition to this, pleasant breeze. I really didn't want to leave that place but Mum called for Aquarium. I have seen aquarium in many places,so, soon we were on the ticket counter of gardens. There is a beautiful fountain and man made water body just when we enter the garden. It looked similar to Brindavan garden of Mysore.

Bagh-e-Bahu
Water drains through cemented path and small fountains add beauty to it. We reached near lower gate where there was a row of colored fountains. Driver was waiting for us. Our tour was over and he took us to Sharma Vaishno Dhaba near railway station. Food was really tasty and the way waiter served made us eat more.


We paid bill to the driver on Jammu Tawi station and rushed though crowded entrance to find our train.

Trip credit : Mum
Pic credit: Me

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Tour de Patnitop

So, it all started when I was on call with my mum and she was keen to visit Vaishno devi. For Hindus, Vaishno devi is ultimate place to get blessings of goddess. Finally, she ordered me to book tickets and I ended up with a plan of sight seeing in Patnitop and Jammu along with Vaishno devi!

I started my online research for places to visit in and near our targets and my trip started on a drizzling friday evening when I took flight to Delhi. Mum, dad and bro met there and we took train for Jammu. Train was late and we reached Jammu by 5 PM. We planned to stay in Katra for two days. Rain welcomed us at Jammu Tawi and due to hotchpotch in commuter buses we decided to take a taxi for Katra. We reached there at around 7.30 and for one night ,our booking was in Niharika, an accommodation by Vaishno devi shrine board. Place was fine but when we asked for continuing our stay they said it is online. So, after our dinner we searched for hotel and found a cozy hotel Tridev.

Hotel Tridev
After talking about our stay from next day morning and a taxi for Patnitop, we shifted next day.

Taxi came next day at 8 and we left for Patnitop by 8.30. After crossing town we took Srinagar highway and our first stop was Bhairav nath temple.

Bhairav nath temple
It seemed newly constructed and JK Tourism board marked it as an important place to visit. Along with Lord Shani, there are idols of Goddess Durga and Lord Hanuman also. When I came out and saw Trikuta mountains on which Vaishno devi temple is situated , it was full of snow on top portion. This was my first time to see snow in reality.

Snow view of Trikuta hills
Though I was in a hurry to reach Patnitop but driver was not too worried. When I asked him, he said we have enough time. Road to Patnitop is a bit narrow and not too suitable for driving by inexperienced drivers of plains. He stopped car at Tawi view restaurant for breakfast.

Tawi view restaurant
When we asked for some local food waiter suggested us to try Kalari. He said, "veg hota hai, dudh ka banta hai bread ke sath" but when we tasted we found it was cheese. I won't say it was so tasty but yes you can definitely try at least once.
Kalari
Mountains with snow were visible and sometimes Army trucks were crossing us. Step farming, the term which I read in my social studies ,had live examples there.

Step farming
River with muddy water was flowing. We again started and told driver not to stop before Patnitop since I thought we were getting late. But, fate had some other plans for us and we encountered a jam due to big vehicles coming from opposite side. It took about half an hour to cross that jam and after few kilometers we switched to road dedicated to Patnitop only. Government has made separate road for Srinagar and this has helped a lot by diving load of road. We crossed Kud and soon entered in the town of Patnitop. All the flora was covered with snow and it was like as someone has spread light cotton balls all around. Driver said, " You are lucky to see snow since they have opened this route today only" I wanted him to stop car so that we can touch snow but he took us directly to the roadside shop which gives clothes and shoes for snow on rent. It was situated on the way to Nathatop. We checked but route to Nathatop was closed due to snowfall. We rented clothes and rubber shoes and sat in car to reach a snow park. A local vendor was selling Kulcha outside the park. They call dish made of bread and gram beans as Kulcha. We entered park and I felt as if I am in some foreign location.



People were playing with snow. Mum was extra careful while walking on snow and suddenly brother made a snow ball and hit her. She didn't actually expect that and laughed. Dad saw one snowman made by someone at a corner and after inspiration made a Shivaling with snow. There were few vendors with sleigh and offering ride. We took around 200 meter ride on that and then after spending sometime we saw one cafe. I had never felt cold like that. We rushed inside it and ordered tea and coffee. I had seen this much beauty only in movies. We came out after finishing tea and booked four horses for snow ride of around 1 kilometer towards a guest house.


Everything was happening first time that day. Horse riding on snow was an unforgettable moment. Snow was falling from tall deodars. Few drops fell inside my clothes and I felt an electric current. Though people were enjoying but there was a kind of serenity there. Voices were not so loud like cities. We clicked few pics after reaching to the end and then returned. After paying for horse ride we tried our hands on skiing. Mum and dad were not interested so me and brother took off our rubber shoes to wear special boots for skiing and then started trying to adjust over skis. My brother was a bit curious for ski poles but vendors told they are for experts. One of them supported us in 200 meter skiing by giving us speed and teaching us balancing. After spending few hours in snow park, we came back to taxi to visit Nag temple.

Nag temple is around 3 kilometers from park and road is so narrow that only experienced drivers can make two vehicles cross each other on it. I saw people in hotels were enjoying tea on roof. Few were playing Carrom. Nag temple is on a cramped walkable path but before we got down from taxi, few local vendors started insisting us for having a look at Chingu : Bulbul ka bachcha. Later we found they were advertising a locally handcrafted quilt. We walked down the slippery road and entered Nag temple.

Nag temple

"Baba Gabah temple is hundreds of year old..." I read what was mentioned on a notice board. My legs were not ready for extra cold floor but I took off my shoes. One can see a lot of snake idols in this temple.

We drank tea outside the temple and moved back to return rented clothes. While going back I noticed beauty of forest with snow. Serenity was mesmerizing.


We returned things and our while our taxi was leaving that beautiful place but I my heart was not ready to leave it. Though my eyes captured all scenic beauty ( of course my specks helped in it) but I capture few more pictures for my remembrance. Snow on the mountains was so similar to the clouds that my mum asked me couple of times whether it is snow or cloud?



After around half an hour, we left snow potion and still my head was turned back to fill beauty in my eyes. We came inside Kud, a town famous for its sweets. Driver stopped at Arora sweets and we purchased famous Kud chocolate and Patisa.

Kud special chocolate

Patisa

When mum & dad started exploring market for dry fruits I walked to take a panoramic picture of Kud

Kud garden view

We stopped at Neelkantha restaurant for food.


Sun was about to set and this time surprisingly driver was driving faster than morning. At around 7.30 in the evening, we reached katra for our darshan of Vaishno devi ,next day.

It took us whole day to return from Vaishno devi temple so we took rest and next day we headed towards Jammu for sight seeing.

http://raghavs1003.blogspot.in/2017/03/tour-de-jammu.html

Trip credit: Mum
Pic credit: Me


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Wednesday, 8 March 2017

Tour de Mahabalipuram

So, it all started when I was staying in Chennai and was on call with Kumar. He is my college mate and that time he was in Mumbai. We planned to travel somewhere and he was keen to visit some place in east coast. Finally, we agreed on Mahabalipuram!!!

He arrived Chennai central at around 4.30 AM and took a local to reach my flat in Perungalathur. Denying my suggestion of taking rest, he said, "I slept all the way, now can't wait!"
"He seems more travelholic than me", I thought. So, we started at 6 AM and took local to reach Tambaram, crossed railway station to reach east Tambaram, took 95 number bus and reached Sholinganalur at around 7.15 AM ( thanks to less traffic). Sholinganalur is situated at OMR road, but our target was ECR road. We took a local auto to cover 2-3 km distance and reached to bus stop. After waiting for few minutes we boarded a bus to Mahabalipuram at around 7.35 AM. ECR road is one of the most beautiful roads of India, with sea shore at one side and covers a distance of around 800 km joining Chennai to Kanyakumari. This road gives way to few of Chennai's most popular places, Mayajaal, MGM dizzee world, Muttukadu boat house, Kovalam beach, Madras Crocodile bank trust and lets us to Mahabalipuram, Puducherry etc. A lot of resorts and one off road sports arena is also situated on this road. We were crossing Muttukadu boat house and saw Bay of Bengal touching Muttukadu lake. We have boating facility available here and it is one of the best places to enjoy evening. At around 10, bus left highway to Puducherry and entered into Mahabalipuram.

Mahabalipuram, historically being a sea port during 1st century and a port city during reign of Pallavas, is surrounded with ancient monuments, light house and temples etc. Our first target was obvious and after getting down from bus, we walked to the famous Shore Temple.

Shore Temple

Shore Temple : side view

Shore temple got a  name of Seven Pagoda's by sailors of 7th century and is dedicated to Lord Shiva. It has granite Shiva ling facing Bay of Bengal. It is said, when sun rises, its rays light the Shivaling from a small door. We took a crowded road from bus stand to reach the entrance. After taking ticket and giving a usual smile to ticket checker, we entered into the garden covering Shore temple. On left side, across the metal railing, we saw wide rocky sea beach with colorful boats. Temple is surrounded with garden on 3 sides and noisy sea beach on one side. A lot of foreigners were there, which explained the popularity of this place across the world. Garden is very well maintained and after crossing curved path, we reached the temple campus. I have photos of Harappa and it looked similar. Old stoned structure, a dry pool lacking water, temple situated on a platform and  various shrines covering temple. We entered though side stairs and after crossing a corridor we ended up at Shivaling facing Bay of Bengal. 

Shiva ling, Shore temple

I thought, we missed some part, so, after praying we crossed another corridor to see idol of sleeping lord Vishnu. We came out of temple and then saw main entrance with stairs. We entered and bowed in front of Lord Shiva-Parvati. 

Shiva Parvati Shrine

Also, there is a small stoned idol of goddess Durga on her lion. 

Goddess Durga

We came out of temple and started struggling to reach sea beach, full of noisy waves. After our little struggle temple guard helped us and told there is a muddy way on right side of temple's entrance to go to sea beach.

We took the way told by guard and walked through crowded sandy path having various shops of sea food, caps, toys etc. Being a vegetarian ,smell of fishes was really unbearable for me so I walked swiftly to reach open space. Kumar was checking everything like a police guy. Various vendors were  selling entertainment there, balloon shooting, horse riding etc. Beach was fully crowded and though I have visited many beaches on eastern coast, but, this was most noisy with waves hitting rocks. We went towards left to sit on black rocks.Though it was sunny but it always feels good when you are near some shore. After siting for few minutes, we decided for a long walk across the shore. We purchased raw mangoes from a vendor and after our walk, we turned back to eat some thing before visiting Pancha Rathas.

Rathas

Pancha Rathas is around 1.5 km far from shore temple. Though it was warm but since we had some juices and eatables so we walked to cover the distance. We crossed Arjuna penance, light house, shops selling stone and wooden artifacts and a big park on our right side to reach there. This place contains 5 major rathas on the name of 5 pandavas of Mahabharata along with a small monument of ratha for their common wife Draupadi. There is one independent sculpture of Nandi near Arjuna ratha. Here I also saw the elephant sculpture which was very commonly shown in CBSE social science books when I was in school.
  
Elephant at Panch Rathas

After visiting this, we came out and rushed to a vendor selling lemon soda with ice cubes. After having two glasses each we turned back to our next targets : Arjuna Penance, light house and Varaha Cave temple.

While we were walking towards Arjuna Penance, we stopped at one cap seller and Kumar purchased a Devanand style cap. Since Mahabalipuram is famous for its stone work, so I purchased a small fish locket made up of black stone. We walked and reached to a rocky park surrounded with trees and railings. We entered through a small gate , followed a rocky path to reach a open space which was little crowded. Few lady vendors were selling water, sour fruits and water melon. We purchased and finished in few minutes. There were stairs to reach on the top of the hill. We crossed them to see whole place. Panch Rathas were visible from there. We got down and went into the light house after purchasing tickets. 

Light house

Scenic beauty was hypnotizing! Shore temple was looking very small with roaring see covering whole portion. We could see well defined scenery of rocks, water bodies, trees from 360 degree view of light house. 

Bay of Bengal and Shore temple from light house

After spending some time, we got down to see Varaha cave temples : a temple of Lord Vishnu, which contains a sculpture of Varaha ( one of the incarnations of Lord Vishnu ) lifting Earth. We saw it and walked through rocky paths to reach to Raya Gopuram : an incomplete temple gate structure. After crossing it, we reached to a big ground containing Krishna's butterball. It is large rock resting on some inclination. Stories are famous that ancient kings and governor tried to move this rock, even with seven elephants, but they failed. Everyone was sliding down from base for rock to the ground. I also gave a try and then we sat under a tree. whole place looks like some big park. Kumar saw a vendor selling samosas. He called him and after having samosas we rested under the tree for some time. When we came out of the park and turned right, we saw Descent of the Ganges! 

Descent of the Ganges

This rocky monument shows the story of descent of the river Ganges to the earth from the heavens by Bhagiratha. Our trip was about to end and we walked towards bus stand to see Sthalasayana Perumal Temple.

Before visiting temple we had food at a local restaurant. This temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu and her wife goddess Laxmi. It is said various popular dynasties of south India have contributed in construction of this building!
Sun was about to set and soon our wait was over : one bus was ready to depart for Chennai!

Trip credit : Kumar
Photo credit : Me, Kumar


    

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